You can purchase a kitchen splashback in almost all price ranges. Probably the cheapest option is the foil as a kitchen rear wall. In the following, we have created instructions for you on how to glue a kitchen rear wall made of foil.
Kitchen splashbacks made of different materials
The tile mirror in the kitchen between the wall units and the worktop is totally out, to put it succinctly and colloquially. The stylish kitchen rear wall has taken its place. These are available in an almost unlimited variety of designs. In addition, there are just as many materials that a kitchen splashback can be made of:
- Also read - Gluing the kitchen splashback to tiles
- Also read - Papering the kitchen rear wall
- Also read - Laminate kitchen splashback
- Acrylic glass (plexiglass)
- Toughened safety glass (ESG)
- High pressure laminate (HDL)
- made of different plastics
- made of various composites
- made of metals such as aluminum or stainless steel
- made of foil
A foil as a kitchen rear wall
The material a kitchen splashback should or may be made of depends on various factors. The simplest variant, however, is a film. Please note, however, that not all adhesive films are suitable. This must be heat-resistant because of hot splashes of fat and, in the case of gas hotplates with an open flame, because of any heat build-up.
In addition, it has to be resistant to hot steam and moisture, since steam is generated almost every day during cooking. So only use products that have been approved as a kitchen splashback and observe any restrictions and safety instructions from the provider; especially with regard to the aforementioned heat resistance and resistance to moisture and humidity.
Tile mirror or a plastered wall
In addition, it is crucial whether you already have a tiled mirror on the kitchen wall or whether this is still an ordinary plastered wall that may only have been painted. If there is still a tile mirror, you cannot of course attach the foil to it.
Instead, you will then have to mount a suitable composite or plastic plate to get a smooth surface for the foil. You can find instructions on how to do this under Attaching the kitchen rear wall. The following instructions refer to gluing the foil to the wall as a kitchen rear wall.
Step-by-step instructions for gluing a foil as a kitchen back wall
- Kitchen back wall film
- special adhesive for wall coverings such as foils or vinyl wallpapers
- Tool for removing light switches, sockets, lighting
- Tool for sanding the wall (especially if painted)
- suitable tools and cleaners for cleaning the wall
- Paint tray, brush and roller for applying the glue
- Scalpel or cutter knife
- Roller for rolling out air bubbles
- large plastic spatula
- Measuring tool
- Metal profile for straight cutting of the foil
1. Remove attachments
First of all, sockets, light switches and lights must be removed. So unscrew the fuse beforehand. Then any existing silicone joint or the worktop wall connection strip is removed. The end strips on the underside of the wall units must also be removed.
2. Sand and clean the wall
Now the wall is sanded clean. To do this, use a grinding block. Thus, the absorbency of the wall is increased again; Especially when the wall is painted. Afterwards, the kitchen wall is cleaned intensively with water and a sponge. Let the kitchen wall completely dry completely.
3. Priming the kitchen wall
Now the kitchen wall is primed. Use the adhesive to secure the back panel. Dilute the adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions for use. This ensures that the plaster does not suck the glue for bonding the film too quickly, but the adhesive is well connected well with the plaster. The drying can take up several hours.
4. Cropping of the slide
Now cut the back panel. Measure them exactly.
5. Glue the slide
Then the kitchen wall is washed back with the glue. But now no longer diluted. Depending on the size of the kitchen, you can paint the entire surface or always one piece at a time so that the glue does not dry out.
6th. Smoothing the foil kitchen back wall
The film is then smoothed out with a spatula and roller; every air bubble must really disappear. This work is certainly very time-consuming, but the clean result justifies it in any case.
The film should stick firmly within a day. Then the openings for switches, sockets and lights are cut out and the covers are installed. In addition, connection joints can be grouted with silicone or the connection strips can be installed.Tips & Tricks Especially on hot days you shouldn't coat too much of the surface with glue, as this will dry even faster. When applying the adhesive in stages, make sure that the surfaces always overlap with the adhesive that was applied last.