A wooden oven in your own garden is not just a nice construction project for the home improvement. The stone oven also offers you always delicious bread, pizza or even a suckling pig. So the whole family has something of the stone oven. In the instructions you see how the wooden oven is bricked out in the garden step by step.
Step by step Build a wooden oven yourself
- Monkey iron
- Clinking blocks
- Oven door with frame
- Sliding door Heatfest
- Ceramic furnace
- Spirit level
1. Create a plan
First, plan the size of the interior of the stone oven. Then the amount of chamotte bricks and clinker that you need depends on. Find out which sizes of chamotte are in stock at the hardware store. Then you can plan the interior so that you don't have to waste or cut fireclay.
Also plan the height of the wood oven so that you don't have to bend down too much later. Depending on your height, the oven can have an insertion height between 70 and 100 centimeters. The better you plan now, the less you will burn yourself on the stove later. Remember that most of the hot embers must be cleared out or at least moved to the side before you can put the baked goods in the oven.
2. Lay the foundation frost-free
The foundation for the oven in the garden should be dug at least 60 centimeters deep. Ideally, you should insert some reinforcement iron into the foundation so that the foundation does not break later even in the heaviest frost. A few simple point foundations are not enough for a heavy masonry oven. A thin layer of gravel should be spread at the bottom of the foundation.
Then cement is spread around the reinforcement bars. If you still have old rubble stones from another renovation, these can be embedded in the wet cement. This saves you cement mix and you don’t need to mix for as long.
3. Brick up the substructure
The foundation must first dry thoroughly before laying can begin. You can either wall the substructure stone on stone or pour it out of concrete. In this case, you will need some formwork panels and formwork boards, which you can secure with a strong strap against being pushed apart. Here, too, some iron should be embedded in the concrete mass.
4th. Build up combustion chamber
The fireclay bricks are joined together with the fireclay mortar. Don't forget to leave a gap in the back for the trigger. This should be at least ten centimeters in diameter. If you are very experienced or have a special construction plan, you can also route the exhaust air around the top of the chamotte. However, this design is a bit too complex for beginners.
5. Clink the furnace
The fireclay furnace can first be plastered with a thin layer of fireclay mortar. The clinker bricks do not connect directly to the firebricks and the heat in the oven can be kept longer. Then clinker bricks are built up around the baking area. Keep the joints between the stones as small and clean as possible. Mortar that oozes out (€ 7.79 at Amazon *) should always be removed immediately. If you then see that the joints are not completely filled, they should be grouted with the narrow joint trowel after they have dried.
6th. Brick up the trigger
The area around the trigger should be tapered. To do this, always move the clinker a little further inwards. The fume cupboard must protrude a clear distance from the stove, unfortunately there are no basic height specifications for it. If the deduction is set too low, the stove draws poorly and you will find it difficult to get the fire going. In addition, it is possible that the smoke comes out of the front of the oven, which is not only annoying for you when adding more wood, but also gets something into the dough later when baking.
You don't have to buy a complete kit to make the job easier. For example, you can buy the complete element for the fume cupboard separately and build the rest yourself according to your own plans.
7th. Insert the oven door
The oven door can either be firmly connected to the clinker brick around the oven with a frame, or it can simply be set up. There are special sliding doors that stand on two small rails below, so to speak. These doors usually also have a practical wooden handle. If you live in an area with severe frost, you should rather choose this simple variant for the stone oven in the garden. The walled-in metal frame of the fixed oven door could be blown out by frost.Tips & Tricks You do not necessarily have to wall up the fume cupboard for the stone oven individually with clinker, but this variant has a significantly longer shelf life than an iron stove pipe, as it rusts quickly on the outside. The rust can also damage the clinker bricks and crack them off. An alternative to the iron pipe could be a heat-resistant pipe made of ceramic. This would also save you the need to build up with the clinker bricks.